Agar comes from multiple sources, as many red seaweeds are “agarophytes” (that is, seaweeds containing agar in their cell walls). Species of Gelidium are the most important source of bacteriological (lab-grade) agar. Other main agarophytes, largely used for culinary agar, include red seaweeds from the genera Gracilaria, Pterocladia, Ahnfeltia, and others. Species from the genera Eucheuma, Gigartina, and Chondrus have been used as agarophytes in research during agar shortages.9
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Roud then ventures a theory of his own: the custom, he argues, probably developed from a children’s game called Tig-touch-wood that was popular in early 19th century England.